The title writes itself. It was an overcast day but I'll be damned if I wasn't going to fit in one more day at the beach before I left, and clouds weren't going to stop me. Turns out, when you're this close to the equator, clouds are insignificant. My sunburn is lovely but will turn a lovely toasty color in a few hours. I had to visit Rio's two famous beaches, and Ipanema was next on the list.
The waves were epic. We could stand at the waterfront, but any further beyond our waist and the lifeguards would signal people to get back. Definitely too dangerous to swim. Since part of the subway line to Ipanema is closed for construction, there was a subway-to-bus transfer, so I checked first to figure out how to ask for a dual ticket. I noticed that each beach has its own tiled pattern walkway: Copacabana looks like waves, and Ipanema looks Iike bubbles. I camped out between posts 8 and 9, near a less-crowded section of beach near a Rastafarian kiosk. I waved off the vendor that asked if I wanted a chair or umbrella, since I just wanted to spread out my sarong a lay on the ground. I bought a coke and a kibe from a few vendors and passed a couple hours watching the waves,
I really had no more plans for the day, so I picked up to wander the shopping district in Ipanema, full of some great little stores and restaurants. I found Beach Sucos, which is a juice and lunch bar I had read about in The Frugal Traveler. This place had menus in English if requested, and I pointed out a grilled cheese and asked for guava juice, then had a seat at a sidewalk table and relaxed. Afterward I managed to find the express bus back to Copacabana and wandered around a bit longer in and out of some shops, finding a lovely cheap summer dress with a rainforest pattern. Upon returning to Botafogo, when I emerged at street level from the subway, I noticed more street vendors, namely one selling açai. I hadn't tried it yet and have heard so much about it. The B&B owners highly recommended it a few times, and told me about the different way it is served up. I figured this was my last chance to try it before leaving Brazil, so I ordered the smallest size. It's a dark purple-brown color with the consistency of a Frosty or a McDonald's shake that you eat with a spoon. Often it is served with granola on top, but I opted without. I was a cold delicious treat, and I wandered the streets toward home while licking my spoon.
I have less than 24 hours left in Rio. I have to be out of my room by noon, which isn't a problem. Will pack and leave my suitcase in the foyer, and perhaps wander down to Centro for some sightseeing and photography, and a long lunch. When I return by 6 I will just freshen up before my car comes. It's a late flight to New York, overnight, where hopefully they'll keep my itinerary as planned and I'll spend my layover in Saturday with Dad and Mary, to return to Chicago Saturday night. I've had a relaxing week, with some challenges (not too crazy), am proud of myself for accomplishing as much as I did (I was much lazier last time I traveled solo), but also missed a few things that I wanted to see. I wanted to take in some nightlife, late drinks at a boteca, and some samba, but I also didn't want to be out late alone. This was my only hindrance.
I definitely have grown older and wiser since the Dubai trip, by leaps and bounds. Compared to some friends, I'm still a novice traveler, but I believe I may have graduated through a few ranks. Fears have been faced this week, not without a little anxiety, but I've enjoyed the challenge of battling myself and finding out what I really am made of. It would have been nice to have a travel companion here (I get tired of thinking for myself and making decisions), someone to talk to and socialize with, to collaborate with and share the adventure and wonderment, but I also think I needed to do this alone, at least once every few years, to test the soul.
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