“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” -Mark Twain

Saturday, February 23, 2013

Day 1: En Route, er, RE-Route to Rio

The day began simple enough. Caught 2 buses and the el with no waiting time, and arrived at O'Hare with plenty of time to spare. This was planned because I knew I'd likely run into an issue with my passport. I never updated my passport after my divorce so my last name is still different on it than what is on my license... And notably, than the name on my FF account with the airline. Long story short, it was never an issue flying internationally before because I haven't flown overseas yet on American, where my FF account is. Until today. First they couldn't locate my reservation based on my passport, but could under my locator number. I brought along my birth certificate, old wedding license, and copy of divorce decree just in case. The counter agent understood, as she also went through a name change, so we had a good laugh. My visa was already in order, which needed to be checked for Brazil PRIOR to boarding, so I received my boarding passes and was on my way. A strange slight delay and double-looks at me in the security line, but they let me thorough. The security check station said to manually recheck my pass. Odd, but they waved me through.

I hit up Starbucks as usual and waited for my flight to JFK. I purposefully chose to connect there since Dad and Mary live right by the airport, so they were going to pick me up and we'd have dinner during my layover. Suddenly, I was paged by the gate agent. Huh? This never happened. I overheard that the flight into JFK was over-booked, but I wasn't about to volunteer to change flights.

I went to the desk to find out what they wanted from me. Since not enough people volunteered to give up their seats, and since I was connecting to Rio and checked no luggage, I was the easiest person to move off the flight. I explained that I preferred not to since I was meeting my parents for dinner, but the gate agent pleaded. I relented, and she went to work finding me a new configuration. Through Miami? Dear lord, that place can be a nightmare for international connections. How about Dallas? A little better. What's the weather like? Don't send me anywhere where there might be delays. Secondly, my driver is supposed to meet me tomorrow morning. At least routing through Dallas would get me into Rio 20 minutes before my original schedule. Better than a little later than the Miami connection. I was also trying to get an upgrade in the process on the overnight leg, but seeing as she wasn't pushing to put me in business class, we gave me a few options with some space. Apparently she could put me in a center seat and block out the seats around me so I could lie down, but I didn't want to chance that if she could do that, maybe someone could over-ride her. So I went for the exit row window seat. More room and a place to rest my head while I sleep. Nicely done. As she was handing me my new tickets, she said she would also be give a $300 voucher for my trouble. Score! Sadly I wouldn't have dinner with Dad and Mary, but I connect in New York on the way back so we'll get together then.

Once landing in DFW, it occurred to me that this is the home of some quality BBQ. As attractive as a nearby wine bar appeared, I needed smoked brisket if I was to spend a couple hours here. Delicious. This isn't long enough of a connection for me to leave and have a meal with my cousins who live nearby, and with the anomaly in my passport I don't want to risk leaving and being delayed. So here I sit for a couple hours, charging the electronics and sipping on sweet tea. Thank goodness for the SeatGuru app because I learned that my window exit seat would be narrower than most. I asked to switch and they put me in the last available window seat: last row in front of the bathroom. You know what? The seat still reclines, and no one will kick my seat. After boarding was completed, seems no one else wanted to sit in front of the bathroom, so the seat next to me remained empty. Score again. Then I could stretch out and sleep and lean against the window after dinner. The flight is practically full and I have space to myself and don't have to climb over anyone if I want to get up. Then it turns out that my original flight out of New York was delayed 3 hours, and I get to leave Dallas on time. My own row, on time departure, and a flight voucher. I better not jinx things.

So far I have had a little practice with Portuguese. I've been learning on an iPad app, and in the airport and on the plane I can understand a little. We'll see how it goes when I get there. I love immersing in a local language so I'm happy to have an entire week to adjust and learn. In Europe last year I never spent more than 3 days in any country so I'm glad to have more immersion time this week.

I slept a light 4 hours on the plane but at least it was something. Arrival in Brazil was a breeze. Cleared passport control with no issues. My driver was already there to meet me and our conversation on the way was a hybrid of Portuguese, Spanish, and English. We passed the infamous Sambradromo where the Carnival parade was held just a couple weeks ago (its massive!). After resting for a bit and freshening up, It was after noon and I was getting hungry. The house mom gave me a detailed map of how to get back down the hill via shortcut stairs instead of the road switchbacks, then I was on my way. The tiny stairwells were difficult to find if you didn't have directions, and they wound down through people's courtyards and front doors. I felt Iike I was trespassing.

At the bottom in Botafogo, I headed toward the nearest waterfront overlooking Sugarloaf Mountain. Nearby I spotted a juice bar and popped in for some fresh-squeezed guava and a croissant. Walking further through the neighborhood, I found another sidewalk cafe that featured kibbe (and yakisoba), so I sat down with that and a Coke. Eventually I found my way to the metro station and decided to give it a run and I headed to Copacabana Beach. I hadn't worn a bathing suit or brought a sarong to lie on, but I did have a bathing suit top on underneath (as is my custom, if you me), kicked off my sandals, and walked down to the water. The beach was packed!! I do believe I figured out the system how to rent chairs, umbrellas, and get food. Not sure yet if I'm going to the beach tomorrow or Tuesday, but I do plan on spending a day, buying capraihinas, and whatever food comes along. I also tested out the vendors selling sarongs to get an initial price with which to haggle later (and priced against the shops, too). After an obligatory photo opp in front of Copacabana Palace Hotel, I was tired at this point.

I had considering going to the top of Sugarloaf at sunset, but my dogs were barking and I was begging for air conditioning by the time I found a shopping mall. I spotted a Havaianas store and picked up a cute pair, then headed back to the B&B. I promptly changed into a bathing suit and dipped into the little pool to cool off, but at this time the Mosquitos noticed I checked in and their dinner started. Do turtles eat Mosquitos? Because there's a pet turtle here. Maybe he can help a girl out.

About Rio, it's green. And hot. And everyone is dressed like they're going to or coming from the beach. Body image is a second thought and everyone wears the itsy bitsy bikinis. I'm no sure yet if tomorrow I'll go to the beach first, or to Corcovado. I'm exhausted, but tomorrow is supposed to be the best day of the week. How do I use that? I could see Corcovado from a few vantage points, and besides the beautiful day, it still saw a few clouds. I also haven't had dinner so I can't decide if I should walk down the hill for something (so tired!), ask the house mom to make me a sandwich, or order in. Likely one of the latter. The uneasy 4 hours of sleep on the plane is catching up with me and my body clock thinks its time for an afternoon nap.

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