Egypt Travelogue: Karnak and Luxor - 7 Oct 2006

Hypostyle Hall at Karnak

In the afternoon, we crossed back to the east bank and visited the temple of Karnak, the granddaddy of all ancient temples. It was the largest cult center in the world at its time. The sheer scale of this entire complex was amazing.  You may recognize Karnak best from its most famous feature, the columns in the Hypostyle Hall.  This temple complex was built upon by numerous Pharoahs over many dynasties, making it one of the oldest most-continuously constructed and used buildings in ancient Egypt.  As of today, there is still restoration going on a the site.  For as much time as we spent here, we maybe covered half the complex. 

Luxor Temple

Then on to the temple of Luxor.  This temple lies in the heart of modern Luxor.  At its peak, there was a walkway lined with stone lions that stretched between Karnak and Luxor.  There are some features of this complex that were also added during Greek rule which are easily recognizable.  At this point, near the rear of the temple, we were at our final site after 4 days of continuously touring temples (and retrieving me from them).  Finally, our guide said, "Thank you for being with me this week, for touring together.  Would you like to take some time, perhaps another hour to look around, or should we head back to the boat?"  Every head turned to look at me (since I had the reputation to linger), and I said, "You know what, nope.  I'm good.  I'm templed-out."  :)  We certainly got our money's worth! 

Sunset in Luxor

As we were leaving the Valley of the Kings, we heard someone shout, "Go Cubbies!"  We turned around, realizing it was in English and that we were wearing our Cubs hats, and a man walked over to us. He was wearing a Red Sox hat.  We introduced ourselves, and he explained that he was an American soldier stationed at the Israeli-Egypt border and was on leave for a couple days.  Two days later, as we were in the Luxor airport preparing to return to Cairo, we heard someone again, "Hey Chicago!"  It was the same soldier we say two days earlier in the Valley. 

Muhammad Ali Mosque at the Citadel

This morning we left our boat, flew back to Cairo, and went to the Muhammad Ali mosque in the Citadel. Gorgeous.  The carpets were original and hundreds of years old, and the chandelier was a gift from Spain.  We were dressed appropriately to come in and didn't have to cover further, as I had a sheer scarf on me with which I covered my head.  It was here that our guide sat with us and gave us a overview of Islam, and he said his prayers.  The Citadel sits atop a cliff that overlooks Cairo so we could see nearly to the Pyramids save the smog, but it was still a beautiful view.

Inside the mosque

Later we walked through the main gate of the old city walls that surrounded Old Islamic Cairo, through Khan El Khalili bazaar, and dined at Naghib Mahfouz, named after Egypt's famous Nobel Laureate who used to pass his days writing in this cafe.  We really breezed through the bazaar, and I wish I had spoken up to take more time to shop and explore the tiny alleyways.  Old Cairo is like a time warp, the streets are still dirt, and small stones cross the street so pedestrians can walk from side to side without stepping down into the dirt, just like in medieval European cities (think Pompeii).  I saw a man in a doorway dispensing milk for cheese out of a goat's stomach (no goat, just the stomach lining).  You could have told me the year was 1400 and I would have believed you.

Overlooking Cairo

Now we're back at the Four Seasons. Unfortunately our room this time doesn't face the Pyramids - I was hoping for a last look goodbye, but it's only for 2 nights and we head back home at 4am Monday morning.

A note about mummy tummy: it hit us both.  After that initial punch, I was fine for the rest of the week, pretty much. All the pain and discomfort was gone. AND, after 5 days, the jet lag wore off and we were able to have 4 consecutive really good nights' sleep.  Thank goodness. We've had a few bouts of uncomfortable g/i issues, but nothing major. Luckily the food on the boat was a little more like what we're used to, so we settled in quickly. As I re-read that statement, oh boy, I've come a long way in 4.5 years, from eating Western food to craving spicy street food in Bangkok.  I'm sure it'll all catch up with me again some day.

Cairo

A note about our tour company, Abercrombie and Kent. If you EVER have a chance to travel with them, DO IT! We had a 3:1 staff ratio on Cairo with them. Our private guide, our coordinator, and our driver. They checked us onto the plane, carried our luggage, passed us through every security checkpoint seamlessly, we NEVER waited in a line for entry. On the boat, they waited on us hand and foot. We had private transfers to and from the airports, and a coordinator and guide met us at every flight.  Although I'm not partial to guided tours now that I've traveled independently, I will travel with A&K for an African safari. 

We've gotten really good at greasing palms, too.  Here, you tip EVERYONE (aka "baksheesh"), even the dude that's standing outside the tombs doing nothing. He's actually doing something - making sure you have a pleasant stay. It was a foreign concept to us at first, but you quickly get the hang of it. I was initially uncomfortable at the idea of what appeared to be bribing officials, but eventually we came to understand the subtleties.

Oh yes, deep into the countryside, we stopped at a carpet school. Here, they hand-pick kids from age 12 and they go to regular school in the morning, and carpet school in the afternoon. It's a skilled job where they grow up and make the most beautiful eastern/Persian carpets I have ever seen. Wool, cotton, and silk. I SO wanted to bring a silk carpet home, but they're EXPENSIVE, even if you bargain.  As I look back, I wonder if this was a facade for the tourists.  I'm still unsure.  And the rugs weren't that expensive.  I could haggled down even further, and really wish I had.  Unfortunately I was over-ruled on buying anything.  Guess I'll have to go back, then, when there's no one to tell me no.

What I wish I could bring back with me was the sound of the call to prayer from the mosques as it echoed over the countryside, over the Nile, and off the columns of the temples. Some sights, sounds, and smells will stay with me forever as memories.  Materials things can buy you momentary happiness, but travel and experience lasts a lifetime.