Cambodia's Tragedy

Since we spent Thursday discovering Cambodia's ancient past, we spent Friday morning in recent history with a visit to the War Museum in Siem Reap. "Museum" is a liberal term. It looked like someone's overgrown backyard full of rusty tanks, helicopters, an airplane, Howitzers, ammunition, and land mines.

Cambodia's civil war was approximately from 1970-1975, then the Khmer Rouge wrested power from the democracy and established an egalitarian state of the cruelest kind: emptying cities and forcing the population into the fields to toil for little food. Many died of malnourishment and from the labor, and the others were executed: mostly intellectuals, journalists, artists, anyone who could threaten power to the KR. Since bullets were expensive, the KR chose to execute people without the "luxury" of a quick death by bullet. In 5 years, 3 million people were murdered, the rice paddies filled with their bodies, hence "The Killing Fields." This was one fifth of Cambodia's population. Traditional arts, crafts, music, knowledge, and other trades were nearly eliminated.

How did the KR obtain their weapons to overthrow the government? They purchased second-hand weaponry from WWI, WWII, the Korean War, and the Vietnam War, along with the assistance of the Chinese government, who supported the KR's extreme communist vision. Much of the heavy equipment was Russian- and Chinese-manufactured, and at least half of the firearms and bomb casings were American. What was that feeling when I held an AR-17 rifle in my hands and saw "Colt. Manufactured in Hartford, Conn" in my hands? Shame. Shame that this very weapon that was made in our country, that our government purchased, then sold, and ended up in the hands of the Khmer Rouge, used in the largest genocide since the Holocaust. I was pained to see the 500 pound bomb casing lying nearby with American markings, wondering perhaps if it was dropped during Nixon's secret bombing campaign in the country. Who did this bomb kill? Or those rifles? The family of our guide, who lost 3 fingers while attempting to defuse a landmine, and is still harboring shrapnel beneath his skin? Our guide's family who were all killed during the war and the KR regime, and saw his friends at age 10 and 15 blown to pieces by land mines? Despite the efforts to defuse 10 million mines in the country, it is believed that another 3 million still lie in wait for another innocent victim.

And it made me think, what are we contributing to the world? Sure, we export vaccines, technology, food, and humanitarian assistance. But we're also exporting weaponry, what countries are we selling these to, that after they outlive their usefulness, they're resold on the secondary market? Then used to what purpose, and in whose hands?

The last Khmer Rouge stronghold finally collapsed in 1998 along with the death of Pol Pot, but unfortunately, corruption still permeates this alleged "democracy." Former KR officials now hold office in the government and the courts. Despite local and international efforts to both defuse the mines, as well as nurture and preserve the near-dead Cambodia arts of apsara dance, silk weaving, ceramics, and shadow puppetry, this country has a very, very long way to go.

Our feelings were mixed as we left Cambodia. How did we help? We pumped plenty of cash into the local economy on handicrafts, paid directly to the merchants, but what about that $25 departure tax? A government-imposed fee that puts my money directly into their pockets. Am I helping or hindering? Is this fishbowl tourism, visiting a place to see how differently they live, then I hop on a comfortable plane and relax in my air-conditioned hotel room and call for room service. What kind of footprint did we leave behind?

If anything, travel has shown us our good fortune as Americans, and opened our eyes to what is so blantantly in our faces: poverty, child exploitation, corruption, scams, and lack of historical preservation. Travel creates awareness, but one must be prepared for how that awareness can be more of a downer than an uplifting vacation. On the other hand, it has opened our hearts to causes we had otherwise never considered. Cambodia may be experiencing a rebirth of sorts, but their tragic recent history is still within our generation, too soon perhaps for significant change.

Angkor Temples

Angkor Wat

Today we awoke at 4am to grab some bikes to trek up to Angkor Wat to catch the sunrise. Despite our will to sleep in, we knew we'd miss an opportunity. The ride up was pitch black. In town there were lights, but as soon as we left town, no lights, few cars, and just a couple tuktuks (reameau in Cambodia), and a few other bikers. For a while we were operating blindly through the jungle hoping a dog, monkey, or whatnot wouldn't jump out at us. Couldn't see a thing. Arrived safely, locked up the bikes and camped to watch the sun come up over Angkor Wat. Google-image it. Amazing, breathtaking. A few thousand other people had the same idea, but it was manageable.

Following that, we explored the stunning temple complex a bit more, then biked up to Angkor Thom to explore The Bayon and the Terrace of Elephants, then to Ta Prohm (see also: Tomb Raider). The jungle has really swallowed and destroyed that complex.

We completed the small loop around the temple park, now we're back in Siem Reap planning the evening. The hotel is showing a movie on the rooftop (a Khmer Rouge documentary) so we might catch that, then head to the night market to finish shopping and catch an apsara dance show. Tomorrow we might head down to the floating villages on Tonle Sap lake, but I hear the waters are low this time of year. Shall see.

Elephant Nature Park and Live from Cambodia

When was the last time I posted? How many days ago? Am losing track. Today it's Wednesday, and I'm writing from Siem Reap, Cambodia. But before we arrived, I'll begin where I left off.

Saturday was George and Anna's wedding, which was held at the Anantara Resort - gorgeous! The reception was back on the beach at the Muang Samui and we partied like pros in the sand late into the night. Nothing beats a great beach party. Sunday we departed for Chiang Mai.

It's a quaint little city, old, and free of the Bangkok's noise and Koh Samui's hustle. We stayed in the old city inside the ancient walls and moat at a lovely boutique hotel. Monday Jeff and I visited the Wat Prah That Doi Sutep shrine atop the mountain which towered over the west side of the city. A tuk-tuk ride, a pickup ride, and 300 steps later, we climbed to the top of the golden shrine that overlooked Chiang Mai. Tourists and pilgrims alike were visiting, and monks giving blessings in different areas of the temple. We then spent the afternoon lounging in Chiang Mai. I can't even remember at this point what we did that evening.

Tuesday we took a 1.5 hour ride north into the Mae Tong region to the Elephant Nature Park. ENP and the founder "Lek" Chailert rescue orphaned, abandoned, injured, sick, and abused elephants. This is an amazing preserve with a small elephant hospital with 2 vets on staff, guest houses for volunteers, a river, and acres of open pasture for the elephants to roam. This is no zoo, people. It brought tears to our eyes to see how much love and care they're given, and I will never, EVER again patronize a circus, any elephant rides, or the like that have a history of elephant mistreatment. These beautiful animals belong in the wild, not lugging tourists or balancing clowns on their backs. They had two babies which were playful and mischievious little critters, with quite the personalities. We fed them, bathed them in the river, and got a wet, sloppy kiss on the cheek (Nette was "blessed" with a kiss to the chest!).

That brings us to today... Matt and I arrived in Siem Reap for some serious shopping (silks, carvings, and shadow puppets), plus an entire day at the Angkor temples. We're getting up to grab a couple bikes at 5am and ride up to the Angkor Wat to watch sunrise. Then we head to Angkor Thom, then Ta Prohm (see: Tomb Raider), then probably back here for a nap, followed by more shopping (I have a list), and drinks at the FCC. This city is beautiful, not quite urban, a touch of tourism, but you can still see the poverty, the dirt parking lots, dilapidated buildings, and crumbling infrastructure, although I hope this is on the rebound. There's something about this town that has touched me already, to hear some people's stories about how they lost their hands while trying to battle the Khmer Rouge, or the children in the streets, or the fact that this city was completely emptied not 30 years ago by the rebels. What other stories lurk behind the faces of those that lived through that era, and survived the genocide? It's almost an eerie feeling to be walking the same streets that saw blood flow in my lifetime.

The Beach

Two days ago we took a boat ride 1 hour out to the Ang Tong Marine Park, where we went snorkeling and swimming, then kayaking around the islands. There are hundreds of these tiny islands with tall limestone cliffs. After a hearty lunch on the boat we moved down to another island where we docked off a beach, then climbed the cliffs up to an overlook where we saw The Beach. Rather, the isolated landlocked saltwater lagoon that's not visible from the ocean, the lagoon that inspired the movie The Beach. The climb down brought us to lake level where we saw barracuda and sea urchins. Later we relaxed on the beach ocean-side before heading back to Koh Samui.

We found a tiny Thai food shack around the corner from our resort that the entire group frequents. The curries are delicious, the staff very friendly, and the price can't be beat. Koh Samui is pretty expensive by Thai standards so we're trying to keep the damage to a minimum to save our pennies for a shopping extravaganza in Chiang Mai. We head up north in the morning for a few days.

Yesterday we had nothing on the agenda so spent the day mostly on the beach and in the pool. It felt good to have nothing to do for a whole day. Today we have a few hours of leisure before Anna and George's wedding this evening on the beach.

It's fun travelling with a group. Every day is a new adventure with a different person, and the next day at breakfast we reconvene to hear the stories from the night before. Let's see, Matt has a stalker chick, each day at least one person is nursing a damaging hangover, stories of "those crazy Aussies,", and the goods and wares from the beach vendors certainly differ between night and day.

I'm also digging this custom of taking your shoes off before entering a room, building, and sometimes a shop. I want to live in a world where I wear shoes only half the time.

Bangkok in the ER

Street Food

"This is quite possibly the best idea we've ever had" ...per Matt Cardoni. We arrived in Koh Samui today and we barely left the incredibly small, quaint, open-air airport of Koh Samui when we were struck by its beauty. We were promptly brought to our hotel/resort where we were greeted and seated, adorned with orchid leis, and treated to fresh coconut milk still in the coconut, and given cold wet towels scented with lemon and mint. This is when Matt stated, "This is quite possibly the best idea we've ever had." Word. They checked us in to the resort right there on the sofas in the open-air "lobby". The room... the room is off the hook. A massive suite where we can wander in a circle and my roommate Kate and I never bump into each other. Our patio doors open to a teak walkway over a coy pond to a private patio. The shower is open to the jacuzzi that was already prepared with oils and orchids, and the rest of the bathroom... well you can always tell an amazing room by its loo, I believe. This does not suck. The rest of the resort winds through more private villas down to the infinity pool which looks upon the soft white sands of the Gulf of Thailand. The sun is warm, the breeze is soft, and I'm in paradise. It's currently 11:45pm and I'm sitting in an internet cafe on the main road in Chaweng Beach. I hear pulsating club music behind me, the horns of so many scooters dodging between traffic. This place makes Spring Break Panama City look like childs play. Fireworks are going off above our heads from the all-night beach parties just a few meters away. This is exactly as I had pictured Koh Samui: idylic by day, debauchery by night. I'm hard-pressed to find Americans, as we're surrounded by every color of the globe represented. It's more international here than Manhattan. Amidst the chaos, Jeff pipes in with, "So there are quite a few ways to die here, I see." Word #2.

I had forgotten to add in the first entry. At 8am the PA speakers in train stations play the national anthem. Ever see those guerilla dance parties on YouTube break out in Grand Central Station where everyone dances at once, or freezes at once? That happened when the national anthem played. Everyone in the entire station froze. When it finished, went about their business.

Reclining Buddha

I pick up yesterday when most of the group took off for the floating markets up north. Jeff and I stayed behind in Bangkok and decided to check a few items off the list from the "1,000 Place to See" book. We stopped at the Oriental Hotel for pictures, then walked to the pier to hop on a river taxi. Was it the right pier to take us to Wat Pho? Would the right boat show up? Which direction would it go? How much did it cost? We didn't know, but got on the first boat that showed up. Travel Tip #1: Know where you are and where you're going. We got out at Wat Pho temple and the shutterbugging commenced. Spent 3 hours in there snapping hundreds of pictures, including the Reclining Buddha.

Monks at Wat Pho Temple

That evening Kate and I decided to hit the Soan Lum night market - I needed a new bag (my Mexican bag broke from the stress). On the way back we got kidnapped by a taxi driver that had NO CLUE where he was, where he was going, or where our hotel was. We were in a figure 8 for a half hour, until he stopped to ask directions. Long story short, we were delivered as planned after furious hand gestures and only paying half the fare.

At 3am I woke practically blind. Long story very short, eye infection, and I paid a visit to the most gorgeous hospital (private, international, expat) I've ever seen. Antibacterial eye drops, ER visit, and Rx: $40. No wait. When I get back I'll get on my soapbox about the state of American healthcare.

I'm off to the hotel now to rest up for a 7:15am call for kayaking. Sawat dii ka!

Bangkok, Day 1. Or 2. Or 3.

We've done so much on our first day that it feels like 3 days. Awoke at 6am to go to a local expat sports bar to watch the Super Bowl. It felt a little odd to be around so many Americans (and Chicagoans!) in a bar in the early morning watching football in 90 degree weather. They had a free breakfast buffet so that helped get us started. On our way there, we passed so many street food vendors! Now I know where I'm getting breakfast tomorrow - this city smells fantastic, the smells of different cooked foods roasting over coals or in woks out in the open. On the way to the train we also saw some monks begging for their morning alms. Men and women in suits dressed up for work were buying them food to put in their bowls, then taking their shoes off and kneeling right there on the sidewalk in front of the monks - for a blessing I assume? It was humbling, the spirituality of this city. Shrines of all sizes are everywhere, in every nook. Near our hotel on the corner is a large shrine where people gather to lay garlands of flowers, burn incense, and pray. Today a Chinese dragon dance was being performed, and a human pyramid built.

Later we set off for Baghlampu area, to Thanon Ko Sahn (sp?) which was chock full of colorful shops hocking bags, jewelry, shoes, knicknacks, and everything in between. Lots of foreigners to match the variety of goods. We popped a squat on the sidewalk after ordering some fresh pad thai from a street vendor, grabbed a Pepsi, and relaxed in the shade watching the tuktuks and backpackers go by.

Next we headed out to the river and took a longboat to another pier and passed the Grand Palace and some huge, gorgeous wats/temples. We'll visit them tomorrow. The day brought us back to the hotel to unwind in the pool, shower, and catch a disco nap. Around 9pm we headed out to a eastern neighborhood to a night market we heard about. We stopped in at one little makeshift garage of 4 street food vendors and ordered up some crab noodle soup and beers. Delicious! Hung out for a while, as a little baby pitter-patted between the tables.

On the way back a rat ran over Jeff's foot, and 3 cockroaches chased Ivann. This evening we're winding down for the night, with some people heading out to a floating market in the early morning, and the rest of us to the Grand Palace and Wat Pho.

This is a beautiful city, much cleaner than I had expected, and less congested, as well. Not much different than rush hour in Chicago. It has helped to know a few Thai words, know the map, and figure out how to give directions and get back home. Smiles abound and we're having a blast. And it's so CHEAP here!

The Orient Express

Rather, the Far Eastern Orient Express, and that's where we're headed. In 5 very short days, I'll be off on a Southeast Asian adventure with 10 other lovely friends. I'll be live blogging from the road every few days (where an internet connection permits), but this is our basic itinerary:

• Chicago to Bangkok via Seoul
• Bangkok, Thailand - temples, palaces, and lots of good food
• Koh Samui, Thailand - lazy beach days, kayaking, and a wedding!
• Chiang Mai, Thailand - more great food, and the Elephant Nature Park
• Siem Reap, Cambodia - Angkor Wat temple complex

UK Travelogue: London et al

1/1/2008

so tomorrow brings us to london. thursday evening we have a party event, and it's supposed to "snow" (like a half inch, so the country pretty much shuts down i'm told) so tomorrow's as good a day as any to hit london. plans: british museum - egyptian exhibit and rosetta stone, and the london eye. everyone here that's visited says it well worth it, and the locals say the same here. we'll also stop for pictures at parliament, big ben, buckingham palace, and a bit of shopping at Harrod's. and whatever happens in between then, so be it. we'll probably only spend the day. at this point in the trip, we're starting to wind down. thursday and friday are for rest, since i return home on saturday.

1/2/2008

back from london. exhausted. saw rosetta stone. rode the Eye. shopped at Harrod's. minded the gap. loved london. when am i moving?

1/3/2008

so there's this First Thursday dinner club in the village. pretty much a dinner party the first thursday of each month at the pub for a large group of local friends. the iowa caucus is all the talk. they took a vote tonight. overwhelming # of democrats over republicans.and if they could vote, they'd choose obama over hilary. they funny.

1/4/2008

well folks, i depart england in 12 hours. i hope you've enjoyed this edition of Travelogue with Adele, UK edition (a younger Rick Steves). thank you for traveling with me to egypt in 2006, england in 2007-2008, and who knows where the rest of this year will bring us. it's been a long 2.5 weeks, but a wonderful time. so many great people met, so many magical placed visited, so many pints of cider drank. but i'd do it all again. and will. for now, fare thee well!

1/5/2008

I'M BACK!!! and it gets better...i slept like crap on the flight to england last month. barely slept on the plane. flew premier class which gave more legroom and wider seats, but still...so when i boarded today, gave them my boarding pass, and it beeped. she keyed something into the computer, and changed my seat. what? i wanted that seat i had - front row, 12B, aisle, premier. moved me to 18G, back. isn't that closer to coach?

i get on the plane, look for 18G. BUSINESS CLASS. i had my own pod. no one next to me. total privacy. the flight attendant came by with a tray as i was putting my carryon up. wine, juice, water, or champagne? champagne please! i asked her why i was in business class. "oh, we're overbooked so we moved people around. and since you're an Executive Club member, welcome to Business Class." quilted blankets, big cushy pillows, personal pod, fully automated seat, little foot locker, own overhead bin, footrest, and get this - FULLY FLAT BED!!

they gave us a menu for dinner. i had the smoked salmon with goat cheese for starter, and the grilled steak with blue cheese gnocci for dinner. and she kept refilling my rioja 3x. watched the Simpsons movie over dinner, then finished, put the seat black flat to the bed, and snuggled up. slept like the dead for 5 HOURS. got up to use the loo, went back to "bed" for another hour and a half. then tea time. tea and scones with clotted cream and jam! i have never had a better flight in my life. ever. for now on i'll continue to purchase premier class, then use miles to upgrade to business. and since i flew in the better class, i get double miles for the journey. i swear, i love BA. they rule. what a great ending to a trip.

UK Travelogue: New Year's Eve

1/1/2008

ugh. headache.

great way to start the new year. the pub put on a hell of a great party. gave us fake money to play in their fake casino they had set up - blackjack and roulette. great food, good dancing, met some nice people. at midnight, looked across to the isle of wight and could see fireworks for miles, as well as all along the coastline from southampton to portsmouth. we're at a point on the seaside that we can see for miles on either side out to the Channel. a good way to welcome in the new year.

so i asked our hosts last night to teach me a drinking song. they all started in on a great song (wish i could remember the words), then asked me to sing it back to them. then they went into a very drunken rendition of For He's a Jolly Good Fellow. next question, "Adele, sing us an American drinking song!" so i break out into "99 bottles of beer on the wall, 99 bottles of beer..." amusing as it was, they then sang their own version of 99 Bottles of Beer... good times, good times...

UK Travelogue: Canterbury

12/30/2007

so the story goes... when we arrived in Canterbury, we were all ready to murder each other. the baby was super fussy, sis had been up since 3am w/ the baby, she was carsick and hungry, i was on edge because she was on edge, etc. we tried to find a place to eat, but in a couple places we walked in the door and they said, "we don't allow babies." sis grew increasingly frustrated, until we found that little italian place and sat down. liam (baby) continued to fuss in the quiet restaurant, we were all still edgy and trying to calm him, marcus was about to skip lunch and take the baby outside, but i grabbed liam, told sis to order me the prosciutto rigatoni, then took liam outside to give my sis and BIL 10 minutes of peace & quiet.

so finally, we sit down to lunch and i'm reading my guidebook noting that we should finish up soon because the cathedral closes for services at 2:30. we finish up and walk to the cathedral gate. it's closed. sorry, they say, come back in 20 minutes. they'll let us in to the cathedral courtyard, we can walk around outside, but can't go in the church unless we attend services. i was livid. we easily could have eaten lunch after seeing the cathedral. and they closed the gate early before 2:30 for choir practice. ugh. i was already disappointed we had missed france, now we come all this way and can't see the cathedral. i was not a happy camper.

at any rate, we walked around a bit more, went back through the gate 20 minutes later strolled around the cathedral grounds. dammit, i thought, i at least need to see the inside. i can't just stand out here. my sis knew that i would go off on my own to take pix of the place outside, so i mosied up to the front door. maybe i could sneak a peek inside even if i can't take pix. maybe services are going on - i saw well-dressed people go in. would they notice if i stole a glance through the door? so i walked up to the door. put one foot inside.

then another.

then another.

then walked through another door.

no one stopping me yet.

i was in the cathedral.

hmm, no one around... maybe i can walk in further...

maybe the services are in the center of the cathedral, and this back area was just for use for large ceremonies. so i walked around some more.

and some more.

and more.

no one stopping me yet, so i pulled out my camera. i was inside for a half hour. didn't tell my sister i was trying to get inside, and i wasn't about to turn back. she's smart enough to know i wouldn't wander back outside the gates and she'd probably figure i was off somewhere with photos, and we'd meet up eventually. inside the once off-limits cathedral, and no entry fee. sweet.i got my Canterbury Cathedral after all.