“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” -Mark Twain
Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Eating Abroad: It's a Crapshoot

I traveled, I ate, I got home, I got sick.

Let's back up... There are more than a few "been there" dots on my travel map.  My first big trip abroad was to Egypt.  I thought I knew The Rules of eating abroad, but I wasn't experienced enough to really think them through.  The rules are: Cook, Boil, Peel, Seal.  Don't eat any meat that isn't COOKED, don't drink water unless it's BOILED, don't eat any fruits or veggies that you can't PEEL, and don't drink any beverages that aren't in a SEALED bottle.  Easy enough, but when you live in the US and you're used to eating almost anything in sight, you take that ease for granted.  I was staying at the Four Seasons so I figured I was going to be fine.  One evening I ordered up some hummus.  In hindsight: mistake.  Hummus isn't cooked, it's made with rinsed chickpeas.  I'm sure I may have eaten something else in the meantime, but a couple days later I was cursed with Mummy Tummy.  I felt so sick that day that I didn't want to eat anything heavy, so I ordered a salad.  D'oh!  Salad is raw, and the contents are rinsed in water.  And I had soda with ice.  Made with local water.  Let's say I learned my lesson after that trip.  I was well enough to work through my itinerary, but I was so bloated for 2 weeks I looked like I could birth a baboon.

A year later I was in England.  I drank bottled water, and I think I followed the 4 rules, but I didn't worry too much more about the food because we were staying in someone's home, and eating across the street at the pub.  Yummy, delicious, savory British pub food.  Nom nom nom... I digress.  Unfortunately my visit was timed with the worst outbreak of Norovirus that country had ever seen, and the entire village was sick before I even got there.  Needless today, I got it, too.  Not from food, but just from the air and a houseful of people.  It happens.  You see it every day in the winter, riding mass transit, sending the kids to school, or being in public.  Unless you're quarantined, you're likely going to get sick, too.  It was bad.  Not send-me-to-the-hospital bad, but bad.  Quick, though, just 36 hours turnaround and I was back to steak and ale pie in no time.

Insert Southeast Asia 2010.  How can you go to Thailand and NOT eat street food?  I went nuts.  Pad thai, street meat, grilled this, stir fry that... I ate nearly 3 meals a day on a sidewalk.  Literally popping a squat on a curb with a bent fork and a beat-up plastic plate that was washed in a bucket of suds.  Two weeks of street food in Thailand and Cambodia and I was in heaven.  Still, I followed the rules.  I could see the meat being grilled, the noodles were cooked, the water I purchased in bottles and checked the caps, the mangoes were peeled, the tea was piping hot.  And you know what?  Not a hint of any problems.  The rules worked.  I'm not sure I could have gotten away with much more, but I wasn't about to test it.  Success!

Next up: South American Adventure 2011, Peru and Easter Island.  The plan was the same: follow the rules, wash hands, but have fun.  And so we did.  We had alpaca, guinea pig, mystery street meat in Easter Island cooked out of a makeshift grill, ate at small family establishments, and the #42 best restaurant in the world.  Eating "different" food doesn't mean you'll get sick, it just means it's different.  As long as it's cooked, boiled, peeled, or sealed, I don't much care what it is.

When I returned to home, the very next day my stomach was a hot mess.  It went on for a couple weeks until I visited my doctor, she wrote out a Rx, and I thought I was all cured a couple weeks later.  Until last Monday when all hell broke loose and the illness made a mean resurgence.  I'll spare the gory details, but I was in the ER for 8 hours on an IV, pain meds, and anti-nausea meds until they deemed it safe to release me into the wild.  Turns out that the Peruvian stowaway in my stomach could have been from water (but see explanation below), or some jerk in a restaurant didn't wash their hands before handling my food (sez my doc).  Turns out that's the most likely explanation.

Carrie and I recounted where we ate and when.  That mystery street meat in Easter Island?  We both ate it, and she's fine.  Heck, she's BEEN fine this whole time.  We both brushed our teeth with the same tap water.  We shared entrees.  Ordered a lot of the same food.  The only occasions I can think of is a couple times when I ordered some pasta from a couple different restaurants.  After all, who handles spaghetti bolognese with their bare hands?  It was cooked, Rule #1.  I should be covered. 

The point is, you can follow all the rules, but sometimes there are other factors involved.  Hell, I'd be MORE prone to eat street meat next time because at least I can see it being prepared, cooked, handled, and straight into my mouth.  Get in my belly!  It turns out that what I had/have is pretty common and can be picked up easily in the US as well, although I was one of the special ones to be rewarded with doting at the hands of some handsome doctors. We know not what lurks on the hands of humanity and if it was smeared all over your delicious sandwich.  Or spaghetti. 

Was it worth it?  Hell yes.  I'd do it all again.  Pass the salt.

Sunday, February 21, 2010

To Miss or Not to Miss

Things I'll miss about Thailand & Cambodia:
  • Flipflops every day
  • Mango sticky rice
  • Street food - any food, any time
  • Breakfast: egg omelet w/ scallions on rice w/ chili sauce, sitting on a plastic stool on a sidewalk, for $0.75
  • 3 meals a day for $5 total
  • Bargaining
  • Friendly people, greetings
  • Taking shoes off before entering a home (maybe I'll start this)
  • Chicken soup in coconut lime broth
  • Fast, clean, cheap Bangkok public rail transit
  • Bangkok - clean, green, friendly, alive
  • Heat - a nice change from Chicago
Things I won't miss:
  • Smelling like mosquito repellent
  • Taxis that don't use meters - negotiating rates
  • Scheisters - "One more stop first in tuk tuk ride" or "temple closed today, but I'll show you other temple" or taxi drivers that the longest way around
  • Being hassled by pushy vendors
  • Living out of a suitcase
  • Doing laundry by hand
  • Calculating monetary conversion rate in my head
  • Heat - and changing clothes 3x/day because of it

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Elephant Nature Park and Live from Cambodia

When was the last time I posted? How many days ago? Am losing track. Today it's Wednesday, and I'm writing from Siem Reap, Cambodia. But before we arrived, I'll begin where I left off.

Saturday was George and Anna's wedding, which was held at the Anantara Resort - gorgeous! The reception was back on the beach at the Muang Samui and we partied like pros in the sand late into the night. Nothing beats a great beach party. Sunday we departed for Chiang Mai.

It's a quaint little city, old, and free of the Bangkok's noise and Koh Samui's hustle. We stayed in the old city inside the ancient walls and moat at a lovely boutique hotel. Monday Jeff and I visited the Wat Prah That Doi Sutep shrine atop the mountain which towered over the west side of the city. A tuk-tuk ride, a pickup ride, and 300 steps later, we climbed to the top of the golden shrine that overlooked Chiang Mai. Tourists and pilgrims alike were visiting, and monks giving blessings in different areas of the temple. We then spent the afternoon lounging in Chiang Mai. I can't even remember at this point what we did that evening.

Tuesday we took a 1.5 hour ride north into the Mae Tong region to the Elephant Nature Park. ENP and the founder "Lek" Chailert rescue orphaned, abandoned, injured, sick, and abused elephants. This is an amazing preserve with a small elephant hospital with 2 vets on staff, guest houses for volunteers, a river, and acres of open pasture for the elephants to roam. This is no zoo, people. It brought tears to our eyes to see how much love and care they're given, and I will never, EVER again patronize a circus, any elephant rides, or the like that have a history of elephant mistreatment. These beautiful animals belong in the wild, not lugging tourists or balancing clowns on their backs. They had two babies which were playful and mischievious little critters, with quite the personalities. We fed them, bathed them in the river, and got a wet, sloppy kiss on the cheek (Nette was "blessed" with a kiss to the chest!).

That brings us to today... Matt and I arrived in Siem Reap for some serious shopping (silks, carvings, and shadow puppets), plus an entire day at the Angkor temples. We're getting up to grab a couple bikes at 5am and ride up to the Angkor Wat to watch sunrise. Then we head to Angkor Thom, then Ta Prohm (see: Tomb Raider), then probably back here for a nap, followed by more shopping (I have a list), and drinks at the FCC. This city is beautiful, not quite urban, a touch of tourism, but you can still see the poverty, the dirt parking lots, dilapidated buildings, and crumbling infrastructure, although I hope this is on the rebound. There's something about this town that has touched me already, to hear some people's stories about how they lost their hands while trying to battle the Khmer Rouge, or the children in the streets, or the fact that this city was completely emptied not 30 years ago by the rebels. What other stories lurk behind the faces of those that lived through that era, and survived the genocide? It's almost an eerie feeling to be walking the same streets that saw blood flow in my lifetime.

Friday, February 12, 2010

The Beach

Two days ago we took a boat ride 1 hour out to the Ang Tong Marine Park, where we went snorkeling and swimming, then kayaking around the islands. There are hundreds of these tiny islands with tall limestone cliffs. After a hearty lunch on the boat we moved down to another island where we docked off a beach, then climbed the cliffs up to an overlook where we saw The Beach. Rather, the isolated landlocked saltwater lagoon that's not visible from the ocean, the lagoon that inspired the movie The Beach. The climb down brought us to lake level where we saw barracuda and sea urchins. Later we relaxed on the beach ocean-side before heading back to Koh Samui.

We found a tiny Thai food shack around the corner from our resort that the entire group frequents. The curries are delicious, the staff very friendly, and the price can't be beat. Koh Samui is pretty expensive by Thai standards so we're trying to keep the damage to a minimum to save our pennies for a shopping extravaganza in Chiang Mai. We head up north in the morning for a few days.

Yesterday we had nothing on the agenda so spent the day mostly on the beach and in the pool. It felt good to have nothing to do for a whole day. Today we have a few hours of leisure before Anna and George's wedding this evening on the beach.

It's fun travelling with a group. Every day is a new adventure with a different person, and the next day at breakfast we reconvene to hear the stories from the night before. Let's see, Matt has a stalker chick, each day at least one person is nursing a damaging hangover, stories of "those crazy Aussies,", and the goods and wares from the beach vendors certainly differ between night and day.

I'm also digging this custom of taking your shoes off before entering a room, building, and sometimes a shop. I want to live in a world where I wear shoes only half the time.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Bangkok in the ER

Street Food
"This is quite possibly the best idea we've ever had" ...per Matt Cardoni. We arrived in Koh Samui today and we barely left the incredibly small, quaint, open-air airport of Koh Samui when we were struck by its beauty. We were promptly brought to our hotel/resort where we were greeted and seated, adorned with orchid leis, and treated to fresh coconut milk still in the coconut, and given cold wet towels scented with lemon and mint. This is when Matt stated, "This is quite possibly the best idea we've ever had." Word. They checked us in to the resort right there on the sofas in the open-air "lobby". The room... the room is off the hook. A massive suite where we can wander in a circle and my roommate Kate and I never bump into each other. Our patio doors open to a teak walkway over a coy pond to a private patio. The shower is open to the jacuzzi that was already prepared with oils and orchids, and the rest of the bathroom... well you can always tell an amazing room by its loo, I believe. This does not suck. The rest of the resort winds through more private villas down to the infinity pool which looks upon the soft white sands of the Gulf of Thailand. The sun is warm, the breeze is soft, and I'm in paradise. It's currently 11:45pm and I'm sitting in an internet cafe on the main road in Chaweng Beach. I hear pulsating club music behind me, the horns of so many scooters dodging between traffic. This place makes Spring Break Panama City look like childs play. Fireworks are going off above our heads from the all-night beach parties just a few meters away. This is exactly as I had pictured Koh Samui: idylic by day, debauchery by night. I'm hard-pressed to find Americans, as we're surrounded by every color of the globe represented. It's more international here than Manhattan. Amidst the chaos, Jeff pipes in with, "So there are quite a few ways to die here, I see." Word #2.

I had forgotten to add in the first entry. At 8am the PA speakers in train stations play the national anthem. Ever see those guerilla dance parties on YouTube break out in Grand Central Station where everyone dances at once, or freezes at once? That happened when the national anthem played. Everyone in the entire station froze. When it finished, went about their business.

Reclining Buddha
I pick up yesterday when most of the group took off for the floating markets up north. Jeff and I stayed behind in Bangkok and decided to check a few items off the list from the "1,000 Place to See" book. We stopped at the Oriental Hotel for pictures, then walked to the pier to hop on a river taxi. Was it the right pier to take us to Wat Pho? Would the right boat show up? Which direction would it go? How much did it cost? We didn't know, but got on the first boat that showed up. Travel Tip #1: Know where you are and where you're going. We got out at Wat Pho temple and the shutterbugging commenced. Spent 3 hours in there snapping hundreds of pictures, including the Reclining Buddha.

Monks at Wat Pho Temple
That evening Kate and I decided to hit the Soan Lum night market - I needed a new bag (my Mexican bag broke from the stress). On the way back we got kidnapped by a taxi driver that had NO CLUE where he was, where he was going, or where our hotel was. We were in a figure 8 for a half hour, until he stopped to ask directions. Long story short, we were delivered as planned after furious hand gestures and only paying half the fare.

At 3am I woke practically blind. Long story very short, eye infection, and I paid a visit to the most gorgeous hospital (private, international, expat) I've ever seen. Antibacterial eye drops, ER visit, and Rx: $40. No wait. When I get back I'll get on my soapbox about the state of American healthcare.

I'm off to the hotel now to rest up for a 7:15am call for kayaking. Sawat dii ka!

Monday, February 8, 2010

Bangkok, Day 1. Or 2. Or 3.

We've done so much on our first day that it feels like 3 days. Awoke at 6am to go to a local expat sports bar to watch the Super Bowl. It felt a little odd to be around so many Americans (and Chicagoans!) in a bar in the early morning watching football in 90 degree weather. They had a free breakfast buffet so that helped get us started. On our way there, we passed so many street food vendors! Now I know where I'm getting breakfast tomorrow - this city smells fantastic, the smells of different cooked foods roasting over coals or in woks out in the open. On the way to the train we also saw some monks begging for their morning alms. Men and women in suits dressed up for work were buying them food to put in their bowls, then taking their shoes off and kneeling right there on the sidewalk in front of the monks - for a blessing I assume? It was humbling, the spirituality of this city. Shrines of all sizes are everywhere, in every nook. Near our hotel on the corner is a large shrine where people gather to lay garlands of flowers, burn incense, and pray. Today a Chinese dragon dance was being performed, and a human pyramid built.

Later we set off for Baghlampu area, to Thanon Ko Sahn (sp?) which was chock full of colorful shops hocking bags, jewelry, shoes, knicknacks, and everything in between. Lots of foreigners to match the variety of goods. We popped a squat on the sidewalk after ordering some fresh pad thai from a street vendor, grabbed a Pepsi, and relaxed in the shade watching the tuktuks and backpackers go by.

Next we headed out to the river and took a longboat to another pier and passed the Grand Palace and some huge, gorgeous wats/temples. We'll visit them tomorrow. The day brought us back to the hotel to unwind in the pool, shower, and catch a disco nap. Around 9pm we headed out to a eastern neighborhood to a night market we heard about. We stopped in at one little makeshift garage of 4 street food vendors and ordered up some crab noodle soup and beers. Delicious! Hung out for a while, as a little baby pitter-patted between the tables.

On the way back a rat ran over Jeff's foot, and 3 cockroaches chased Ivann. This evening we're winding down for the night, with some people heading out to a floating market in the early morning, and the rest of us to the Grand Palace and Wat Pho.

This is a beautiful city, much cleaner than I had expected, and less congested, as well. Not much different than rush hour in Chicago. It has helped to know a few Thai words, know the map, and figure out how to give directions and get back home. Smiles abound and we're having a blast. And it's so CHEAP here!

Monday, February 1, 2010

The Orient Express

Rather, the Far Eastern Orient Express, and that's where we're headed. In 5 very short days, I'll be off on a Southeast Asian adventure with 10 other lovely friends. I'll be live blogging from the road every few days (where an internet connection permits), but this is our basic itinerary: