We had it on good authority that the best brunch in the city was where we had already made reservations, at Hernan Gipponi Restaurant at the Fierro Hotel. This was a brunch tasting menu. I have never seen a brunch tasting menu. At only $30 per person, we were ready for this. Since it was Easter Sunday, we decided to dress up a bit for lunch. Not for religious purposes, but because we figured everyone else would be dressed up. The weather was beautiful and peaceful, a calm breeze with birds chirping neon do the crunch of dead leaves underfoot as we walked to brunch. We were served about 9 courses that ranged from a fruit selection, to an over-easy egg on mashed potatoes with nori, to shrimp, a tiny finger sandwich, fish empanada, whitefish, risotto ossobucu, a Campari cocktail, and yogurt mousse. Lovely. We were certifiably more stuffed than we were from any previous meat-based meal.
The next course of action would be to make our way to the San Telmo neighborhood in time for the antique market. We had stopped to watch tango performances in the park. These dancers were putting on a fine show, but so much more elaborate than the dancers we had seen the night before. Beautiful in their grace nonetheless. I am loving the national export on display in this city, the beauty and allure of tango. We explored the market in depth until I spotted a set of French vintage champagne glasses in an art neauveau design. I bought the set of 8 from a set of very handsome Argentine twins, and they thanked us for the transaction with a traditional kiss on the cheek. I had been in search of these types of champagne glasses (not flutes) for years and was thrilled to find a vintage set, because I am about to toss out my flutes at home.
We thought we were done shopping until we spied a handmade hat shop and made our way inside. We love hats. I love interesting hats. And interested indeed I did find. A black felt chapeau reminiscent of Carmen Sandiego. It had to be mine. Carrie walked out with a colorful scarf and our excursion was complete.
We decided the ideal way to wrap up our last full day was to make our way to Puerto Madero to find the Paseo de Mujeres bridge, one of the most famed pieces of modern architecture in Buenos Aires. This area used to be a series of ports and docks where cargo was unloaded. It has been reclaimed and turned into lofts, condos, and waterfront restaurants. We had passed the Argentine frigate Sarmiento and for merely $2 pesos we could explore. Heck, it was a boat and a surprise inexpensive tour so we hopped aboard. In and out of small passageways we crept, exploring the upper and lower decks like giddy children. We're on a boat! We left to cross over the Paseo de Mujeres that by then was brightly illuminated in the dusk. What is interesting about this area is that all the streets and passageways are named after famous national women. Today Argentina also has a female president. Thinking back to the influence and love of Evita, South America does indeed embrace and hold in regard their women. America seems generations behind in equality and tolerance. It is an unfortunate comparison to our culture but lovely and refreshing to be in a nation that appreciates and celebrates female influence. Or perhaps I notice it more because of the lack of it in the US. Greatest nation in the world? *pause*
Dinner found us at a pizzeria on the waterfront with a bottle of wine on the patio with a view of the bridge, and under the shadow of the giant cargo cranes left behind from the working dock era. I loved that these were kept in place, illuminated and perched like origami cranes, sitting sentry to the masses below. Our bodies were still sore today, our feet swollen, our joints aching from the exertion of the weekend. One more day before departure as we plotted our moves the next day.
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